Week 7 Beginning 14th August 1998

 Day 43

The day we:

• awoke to find ourselves shrouded in a sea mist, such a change from the usual clear, dry heat of the Kimberley morning. Eric and Steve went off to play golf on the course just 800m up the road as the rest of us found plenty to do by the pool or on the tennis court (the fence of which backs onto our site
• swam at Cable Beach after lunch , hired a shade umbrella from the local resort and pretended to be rich tourists
• Eric went for a jog along the sand and found himself on the nudist beach. In his opinion nudist beaches are not a pretty site, too much wrinkle and blubber
• Adrian got a nasty sting from Box (Irukandji) Jellyfish tentacles right across his chest so that put an end to our beach afternoon. They are not supposed to be here until November
• got the tyre repaired and bought supplies including masks and snorkels for the reef swims ahead 
• watched while the boys mastered the new equipment in the pool all evening until the pool closed, their skin is all wrinkled they've been in the water so long
• while tea was on the way the power went out right across the park, probably town too. Thank goodness for gas burner and light, some others are not so well prepared
• spent the evening chatting with Willeys and another family from Coff's Harbour who we've been bumping into since Kununurra.

Day 44

The day we:

• took the boys and Evan fishing at the jetty, girls didn't want to miss out so Steve trundled along shortly after. Didn't catch anything but had an interesting time - saw coral fish, squid, turtles, stingrays and jellyfish. Got lots of nibbles but no bites.
• enjoyed a set of tennis when we got back, this site is terrific right next to the court, the pool and with the Willeys across from us
• swam after lunch then in the late afternoon drove to the Broome Bird Observatory. This is a highly regarded site, one of only four of such significance in Australia. We had to drive 45kms east to Roebuck Bay, 16kms on corrugated dirt and sand. Boys were not excited but how could we miss such an opportunity? On arrival we walked to the beach and were disappointed to find just 1 Jabiru, 2 Pelicans and a family group of Red-capped Plover. The boys played beach cricket with driftwood and rocks. We've come so far to see so little. We walked a loop through the adjacent coastal bush and heard lots of birds but saw very few, not quite what we had expected of our visit
• sent Eric off while dinner cooked to track down Mal and Sarah, the couple we'd met at Daly Waters. It happens they've both got jobs now, he in the mines and she cleaning
• spent the evening packing things away, the mornings are very misty here and it takes awhile for things to dry if left out, time for us to move on. The beach here has lost some of its appeal since the arrival of the jellyfish.

Day 45

The day we:

• were once again woken at 5am by older couples nearby cleaning and getting ready to depart. Most of them are breakfasted, cleaned and packed by 6.30. We follow along about 8.15am today
• have a long trip today; 320kms to Sandfire Roadhouse, quick stretch there and 138kms to Pardoo Roadhouse, got some chilled drinks etc then 14kms to the coast at Cape Keraudren, a spot on Eighty Mile Beach (it staggers us that its called Eighty Mile Beach when the road that travels beside it covers 400kms)
• saw some new birds on the trip, more than we saw at the Observatory -typical.
• got talking to the pump attendant at Sandfire Roadhouse about his broken hand. Because it was not life threatening RFDS does not fly in, they advised him to drive to the closest surgery. Thinking that was Broome he drove  320kms only to be told he needed surgery and had to drive 650kms to Port Hedland. Never let us complain about distances we have to travel for service in Victoria
• arrived on the beach (literally) at 1.45pm, our first camp on the crushed coral beach. This place is beautiful and so remote and yet there are 35 other campers set up alongside us but everyone has plenty of space.
• fished in the ocean, standing waist deep in water as demonstrated by others, to catch tea but ate spaghetti instead
• walked the beach finding crabs and Pelicans, collected shells and flew the kite
• strolled the beach after tea by torchlight and saw hundreds of crabs. They have made the most intricate patterns on the sand. Fantastic and still there next morning
• stargazed before bed and located Sagittarius. This is a fantastic spot. 

Day 46

The day we:

• woke just in time to catch the sunrise, Eric went for a run, Luke and Mum went for a walk on the beach and Adrian collected even more shells. Luke was intent on finding more crabs but they'd all disappeared, we saw lots of birds, shells and the highlight was a school of dolphins playing right by the shore. Luckily Eric ran by just then too.
• packed up with a little regret, can easily understand how people can spend more time here. Our problem is not knowing what is still to come and how long it will take
• called into Port Hedland to see the stockpiles of Iron Ore and Salt and the port precinct. Would have like to climb the lookout tower at the tourist info but had inappropriate footwear and no money on us
• drove on to have lunch on the shady bank of the Yule River, Luke had a dip and shared it with a Jabiru
• drove on to Whim Creek Pub and decided to stay the night, $2 a head with power and the only ones to do so
• enjoyed the shady lawns of the pub grounds and aviaries while a load of washing got done
• went for a walk along the dry creek-bed and around the site of the old township. 350 people resided here once but the pub is all that remains
• while we enjoyed a counter meal a young wallaby bounded into the courtyard to join us
• boys enjoyed learning and mastering a game where you swing a loop attached to a string, that's suspended from the roof, onto a hook attached to the wall
• saw Eric beat the boys at pool, taught them a thing or two
• a quick game of Taboo before bed

Day 47

The day we:

• saw Eric off on his run around the old copper mine while we did the packing up, still falling for that trick
• drove through Roebourne and on to Cossack, a ghost town on the coast. Birthplace of the WA pearling Industry but abandoned here in 1940's. Very picturesque spot, looked over the remaining buildings all very well preserved, the port and the lighthouse lookout. A nice spot but no camping anywhere
• drove on to point Simpson, now this is truly lovely so we decide to stay the night. Luke is already excited about fishing from the jetty beside the lovely looking caravan park. Too late, last site was taken a few minutes ago, disappointed we drove on to Karratha. This is the first time this has happened to us so we've been lucky despite not booking ahead at all
• searched out a caravan repairer to replace our power inlet which has worn and get advice on why the boys' bed keeps slipping off its rollers. While they are busy we head into town for morning tea, a haircut for Luke, beard trim for Eric and groovy brimmed hat for Adrian. Mum gets groceries and grog
• saw a badly damaged van and rear-end of station wagon at the repairers apparently clipped by an overtaking road train, gives you goosebumps
• collected van and headed for Maitland Rive for an overnight stop at Miaree Pool. Its a beautiful shady spot, lots of birdlife and even a goanna right by the van, bbqs and bins but no dunnies
• a rope swing kept the boys entertained all afternoon
• collected firewood and shared the bbq with Dale and Elsie from Cairns and their dog Suki

Day 48

The day we:

• got up with the sun and the continuous chirping of birds at 6am, would never do this at home. Libby decided to seek out those birds responsible and took a walk downstream. A bird that makes a low, continuous deeply hollow whooping sound has her bemused. Found the offender, a Pheasant Coucal about 80cm so very excited, Eric had to drop everything and come to observe too
• had breakfast and hit the road about 8am. Found Dale's company very interesting last night, in his day he'd been a station ringer, drover and done all manner of assorted labouring jobs since 14 yrs old. Told us of some other off-road stops to look out for
• originally intended to stay at Nanutarra Roadhouse but as there's little ther we kept on to Exmouth pulling in, tired at 2pm, for a late lunch. Girl at reception gave us good information about coral reef at Turquoise Bay so tomorrow we snorkel
• had a look at Bundegi Beach in the afternoon, boys had a quick snorkel but it was a bit chilly with the wind blowing. A large sightseeing cruiser sailed right passed, only 2-3 m offshore, gives you an idea about how quickly the bottom drops away
• enjoyed a bbq and game of Yahtzee but everyone tired from early rise and long drive so we all hit the sack early
• having not sighted an Emu in the wild since Marla (day 9), Libby claims to have seen one today on the road into Exmouth but no one would verify it. They're just jealous
• took no photos.

Day 49

The day we:

• were first woken by a group of girls coming home from a night on the tiles at 1.30am. Went back to sleep but a call of nature had us up at 3.50am. Back to sleep but a howling wind and noisy birds disturbed us again at 6.50am, time to get up
• prepared a picnic hamper and drove out to Cape Range National Park stopping on the way at the lighthouse and saw humpback whales breaching far out to sea
• purchased a one month National Parks pass which we feel will be really good value at just $20
• visited a bird hide at Mangrove Beach, but again were out of luck, wrong time of the day. Drove on to the visitor centre, very interesting, then on to Turquoise Beach to snorkel on the Ningaloo Reef, reputedly as good as the Great Barrier Reef. At this stage we can't judge but this was a special place and we've had a lovely day
• all completed 4 snorkel trips. We walked up the beach then waded out about 20m and just by drifting with the current we could snorkel across the reef. Had forgotten how beautiful and brilliant all the fish can be; vivid colours, every size and shape imaginable from tiny to quite large, eel like or flat and skinny while others quite bulbous, rainbow striped or outlined in electric blue. Spotted stingrays, a leatherback turtle, sea cucumbers, clams and the whole range of corals: elk horn, cabbage leaf, brain, whip, etc. In between we rested on the sand and enjoyed the picnic. What made it so special was how much the boys loved the snorkelling, each new find was so exciting
• confirmed Eric's sighting of wild Emu on the way home so he claims to win the bet

Week 6 Beginning 7th August 1998

 Day 36

The day we:

• woke early with the sunrise, mind you it sets at 5.30pm which is so early but brings welcome relief from the heat. Luke has me up early to go fishing in the lagoon beside the park, first I rang Mum and Dad, never done that before at 6.30 in the morning
• were invited onboard a local's tour boat to fish from its stern, he uses the boat to cruise tourists around and happened to be there washing it down. Luke caught a Bony Brim, good size but as its name suggests not good eating so we threw it back
• left the car to be repaired and spent the morning by the pool. When the car was ready at 2pm we collected mail and drove to the Argyle Dam and visited the Durack Homestead Museum. They relocated this stone cottage piece by piece when the dam was built to save it from being flooded. Drove across the dam wall and would have loved a swim I the overflow but this is croc country, thought the fisherman was very game
• returned to town and booked Libby's flight over the Bungle Bungles for 9.30am departing Turkey Creek (Warmun), will need an early get away but that shouldn't be hard with these early sunrises
• drove out to Kelly's Knob Lookout for views over town just on sunset
• cooked by the pool again, this time sharing the bbq with a Dutch couple
• cannot get over the ruggedness of the Kimberley and the red dust, passed 8000kms today

Day 37

The day we:

• were packed early and on the road to Turkey Ck by 6.45am, if we'd left at 7.15am we'd have been on schedule, but to allow for every contingency eg. a flat tyre, Libby has us up and out of here. Isn't she just like Ron!
• arrived at Turkey Ck at 8.50am, Eric not too thrilled at the prospect of hanging around the one shop, but the boys are happy because they've found some game machines. After a coffee (and time to have 3 more) Libby met Pilot Raynor and the Scottish couple who make up the full party - the chopper only has 3 seats so Libby got to sit in the front. After safety checks and being shown how to use the headsets they were off, what a thrill. The flight was excellent, as fascinating as hoped. We flew low and could spin on a sixpence, the view was enthralling: ranges, gorges, domes....worth all the $170 (earnt as a relief teacher) even though the trip back was a bit rough. The wind had picked up and buffeted by this and the rising thermals Libby had to concentrate not to lose her breakfast.
• back on the ground we headed on to Hall's Ck, got petrol and basic supplies but kept going until we made Mary's Pool 107kms further on.
• we're very happy with that decision, don't think we missed much at Hall's Ck and this is a beautiful spot shaded by big River Gums on the edge of Mary R. which you cross first at at a low level ford. The river is not flowing but is a chain of pools at this time of year. Spent the afternoon relaxing, collecting firewood and skimming stones.

Day 38

The day we:

• awoke at sunrise as the flock of Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos took to the wing at 5.45am, got away about 7.30am, only about 180kms to Fitzroy Crossing. Stopped at a lookout along the way to catch a stunning view across the rugged outcrops, mesa and various colour combinations from limestone through ochre red and grey
• set up in Fitzroy Crossing Lodge, a combined hotel/motel/cabin and campground. Very plush with bar, restaurant, pool, tennis courts etc not to mention flushing toilets and showers - just a tad more upmarket than last night
• visited Geikie Gorge, just 18kms out of town, right on time to catch the 11am tour cruise $39 great value for family for 1 and half hrs. Very interesting gorge with limestone reef walls, saw lots of freshwater crocs and birdlife including Brolgas and six new entries for our record
• walked to the sandbank after the cruise where Luke had a swim before returning to camp for a late lunch
• spent some time in the Lodge pool before a trip out to the Old Crossing and original Inn, knew when we wee getting close as the sides of the road were littered with red Emu Export Bitter cans. This is the locals' pub and right now it is all locked up, windows and doors barred. Not an attractive sight for tourists
• spent the evening with the Willey family from Mornington. The Dads first met while washing the cars back at Howard Springs then again in Kununurra. By coincidence the Willey's had also met the Kissicks in Alice Sp.
• (there is a proposal to dam the Fitzroy, hope the politicians visit places like Geikie Gorge before voting)

Day 39

The day we:

• prepared a morning tea and picnic lunch while Eric went for a run then headed for Windjana Gorge, it's early again as the site next to us began packing up at 5.30am
• made the mistake of allowing Eric to drive the 103kms of unsealed road, after 30kms Libby was so stressed she was fighting back tears while her protests at his reckless driving were being answered only with rebukes. The first 'difference of opinion' this trip. It must be conceded that eventually her protests were considered and we travelled a little more sedately which is just as well because one floodway that we soon crossed caused the driver to get out and check for damage
• did manage to get to the gorge without major damage or divorce and enjoyed the walk along its sandy riverbed in the company of 26 crocodiles (those we saw) and birds of all sorts. Identified what we thought was Eagle Rock from Iris's painting. 
• drove back with due care (new driver) to Tunnel Creek, had morning tea in the carpark then entered the cave. Met up with Sue Willey, their family torch had packed it in so Steve and the kids had gone ahead with others better equipped. It's beautifully cool and dark in here
• walked the length of the underground river, halfway point collapse adds to the reality of how special this is (not to mention also light and fresh air). At the far end is a very pretty creek where we met Steve and the 3 kids. Returned together and had lunch in the carpark, then went on to Windjana while we went home (meeting two big Brahman bulls on the way) for a swim and washed the car.

Day 40

The day we:

• left for Derby, only a 2hr drive which saw us through the last of the Kimberley Region to the coast. We've loved it all and heard lots of people raving about the West Region (Mitchell Falls, Cape Leveque, etc trips up the Gibb River Rd, horizontal waterfalls off the coast. Will have to leave all that to another time and another car
• visited the Prison Tree and Australia's longest drinking trough on arrival then settled into the park. Tide was right out so after lunch at the cafe we walked the semi-circular jetty overlooking expansive mudflats. Called into the Botanic Gardens, that just about sums up the points of interest of Derby
• met up with Willeys and all went off to local pool for the afternoon leaving Libby to wash and read
• went fishing off the jetty as the tide came in, it's a 10m tide today, fascinating to watch as it swirls in over the mudflats. Caught nothing but it was interesting and relaxing and the sunset beautiful over mudflats and marsh
• had tea and then the boys watched telly in the Willey van - such a treat -and the adults were left in peace so no complaints from anyone
• hear Broome is fully booked so will aim for an early departure tomorrow
• Stan and Joan Sutherland of Cobram have pulled in beside us here

Day 41

The day we:

• slept in! Well, by current standards. Eric roused us at 6.30am and we were on the road by 7.15. Well done
• arrived in Broome at 9.45am and got the last site available in Vacation C'van Pk, anyone after us to park on the side of the park driveway and run power from the toilet blocks until a site becomes available in the next day or so. Last weekend was the 'Staircase to the Moon' and 'Shinju Matsuri Festival' which pays tribute to the pearling industry's multicultural roots and so Broome is packed
• met the Willey family again, they're in our park but on the roadway for now, kids are happy
• had a swim in the lovely pool then lunch before exploring the jetty where there were heaps of fishermen as it was high tide, then drove the back-beach way to Cable Beach and on to Chinatown to browse and shop for groceries
• returned to Cable Beach for a swim about 3pm, turquoise water rolling in on pristine fine white sand. Absolutely gorgeous. Sat on the beach to see the sunset and it took Luke that long to admit he'd had enough of building dams and weirs on the water's edge. The tide was receding rapidly, these tides are huge
• realised Broome reminds us of the Noosa region years ago as investors wete just beginning to see the potential of the are and began 'cleaning up' the mangrove areas and building major hotels like 'Surfair' at Coolum.

Day 42

The day we:

• enjoyed a long lazy day. Eric ran in the morning while the rest of us stayed in bed. With no driving for a few days we set up the awning, got to meet the neighbours, swam in the pool, read books and magazines etc
• sat back and watched John (teacher from Busselton) and family on the site across from us slowly packed up their outfit, today they head up the Gibb River Rd so will leave the van in Broome and be in tents from now until they return in about 6 weeks
• retained our seats to watch while Steve manoeuvred the Willey van onto John's recently vacated site. The kids enjoyed a trip through the park in the partially collapsed van
• really picked up the pace after lunch, drove into town to take a look at Town Beach and Action Plaza then along Jetty Rdto find Anastasia's Pool, a rockpool crafted by a lighthouse keeper for his disabled wife. Got lost, finally found the track then blew a tyre as we arrived at the carpark. A stone had pierced one of our good tyres (just when we thought this would be a cost effective day). Also here are dinosaur footprints only seen at low tide that date back 130 million yrs, we located the replicas as the originals were stolen
• spent the rest of the day on Cable Beach. Children all enjoyed fish and chips as we watched the sunset then we dashed to town so they could see 'Dr Doolittle'  at the outdoor Sun Picture Theatre and the adults had a beautiful meal at the Roebuck Hotel. This is living.