Day 50
The day we:
- packed up the van early but left it on-site while we drove up into Cape Range National Park following the Charles Knife Rd up to and along the top of this old reef which is weathering over time into really interesting gullies and caves. Great views across these and out to Exmouth Gulf. Met large feral goats on the road, wouldn't want to come across them without plenty of protection around me
- returned to the park, hitched up and drove to Coral Bay. Libby saw 2 full-sized Emus (not scrawny specimens like yesterday) in the wild (not within the confines of a park) while she drove and believes the money should be hers!
- arrived at quaint little Coral Bay and had it all set up right on lunchtime. This is like a hamlet, 2 large caravan parks and only need one hand to count the locals
- found the beach just as beautiful as yesterday, turquoise water and coral right up to the shore so we spent the whole afternoon snorkelling and soaking up the sun. What a life, how long can it last?
- met up with the Willeys again, they've already been here one night after travelling inland to the gorges and Mt Tom Price since Broome. They loved it so we'll have to do it next time
- spent the evening with neighbouring campers Sandy and Con from Moriac near Geelong, he plays a bit of guitar and invited us over. Kids had other plans though as Willeys have hired a colour tv to watch footy finals tomorrow (Steve is avid St Kilda) and tonight Batman Returns is on.
Day 51
The day we:
- woke and went our separate ways: Eric for a run, Libby to the shops and the boys to the Willey's van to watch Saturday morning cartoons. Had a late departure at 10am
- crossed back over the Tropic of Capricorn
- enjoyed a leisurely morning tea at Minilya Roadhouse then turned off the hwy towards Quobba. Lots of nests, one on every second telegraph pole it seemed, collected firewood
- got to the blowholes and found a really strong onshore wind and big swell had them really 'blowing'. There is a sign warning of king waves on this coast so the boys got a clear explanation of how to behave and what to watch for. These blowholes are amazing; water shoots up to 20m in the air through holes in the rocky shoreline then as it falls from such a height it erodes the rock further, making it look like pocked sand after big raindrops have fallen. A really rough surface to walk on. After the water there is a huge rush of air being sucked back down the hole and you hear the roar and feel the rush.
- moved on to Point Quobba at about 1.30pm and parted with the camping fee of $1 per adult per night. We have a site just beyond the sand and pit toilets nearby that even satisfy Luke's scrutiny. There is a lovely lagoon here sheltered by an island sanctuary, its bottom is covered in coral so we spent yet another afternoon snorkelling. Can never get tired of this
- went for a drive past all the quaint fisherman's huts and other campers spread along the coast for bout 3kms. They balloon fish here, attach a balloon to your line and let it float out on the wind, further than you could cast it
- went back to the amazing blowholes, they were looking even wilder than before and we nearly lost Luke and all got drenched by a BIG ONE.
- drove on to HMAS Sydney memorial
- shared a fire with 2 couples from Port Macquarie who know Crisps, Scobles, Ashes and our mechanic from Cobram
Day 52
The day we:
- watched Eric go off for his run, he met Dale and Elsie from Miaree Pool again
- went for a walk to the point and hand-fed the fish we'd been snorkelling with yesterday, all the coral ones. Saw an Osprey up close
- departed about 9am and drove into Carnarvon, got groceries in a big plaza and couldn't understand why it was so quiet until we noticed the local show was on as we drove out of town. Visited the One Mile Jetty, took a train ride out to the end and walked back (except for Adrian who's now getting lazy habits like a teenager, not old enough yet)
- had difficulty finding the road to Geraldton so saw quite a bit of town. Back on the Hwy we covered about 40kms and then took the turn off to Bush Bay, 12 kms unsealed but good condition
- had the bay almost to ourselves bar a few fishermen so could take our pick of sites, right up to high tide mark. Luke checked out the composting toilets and declared them good
- relaxed for the afternoon reading, flying kites, birdwatching and wading. It was high tide when we arrived and the water is like a mill pond. You can walk out for a km and water would only be waist deep
- watched Adrian construct a marvellous shower screen, with very little help, just for something to do. Luke went over to watch the fishermen haul in their nets
- mozzies drove us crazy in the evening, had to put the flies up as the evening dew is very heavy
Day 53
The day we
- got away at 8am, travelled through glorious, abundant wildflowers that carpet the landscape in every direction; yellow, pink, purple, red....
- were required to pull right off the road to allow a very, very wide load to pass - looked like mining equipment. Luke claims the -'Suck the Cool Mint' record at 26mins today
- looked in at Denham, rang through to Monkey Mia to enquire about a site as that seemed the better option, no powered sites left today but we can have unpowered then move tomorrow if we like. What strikes us as ludicrous is tonight's fee is $7 x 4=28, tomorrow's will be $25.50 with power! Strange but true, we queried it but got no pleasure, at least the National Parks Pass gets us into the area free
- took a quick look at the beach, decided lunch then an afternoon on the shore would be lovely. Over lunch and browsing of the brochures we contemplated a boat cruise in search of Dugongs; Adults $34, first child half price, second child free, this included an extra sunset cruise at 4.30pm. Now our afternoon is busy getting in a swim, read, walk and shower before departure time. Eric had to haggle again with that same silly receptionist over the price, hge just can't drop it
- boarded the 'Shotover' at the jetty. Libby volunteered to man the grinder to raise the mainsail. Saw lots of Dolphins swimming in pods of 8 - 10, once we got towards the pearl fields
- had dinner then enjoyed a presentation by one of the resident research scientists who studies the dolphins and tiger sharks, Eric operated his slide projector
Day 54
The day we:
- began the day early, need to get to the beach to see the dolphins come in to feed 8 and 9am. We arrived in good time and waited and waited and waited, at 8.40am 3 swam in along the shore and the crowd surged forward to stand knee-deep in the water. It was cold in the water at that time and you were asked to stand perfectly still so as not to stir up the sand. The dolphins did not return even though we waited patiently for a further 35mins
- went back to the van to move it, semi-collapsed the boys enjoyed a lift inside then talked Eric into a game of tennis while Libby went to post letters and walk along the beach. She arrived on the shore just in time to enjoy the dolphins return, it was now 11.20am. Puck, Nicky and her baby Kea delighted the crowd who soon reformed. Pity Eric and the boys weren't there
- In the afternoon we enjoyed the Dugong Cruise, finding lots of these gentle and shy giants maybe 20-30. We all saw a sea snake, turtle and had dolphins swim alongside our catamaran
- walked the 1.5km loop past a bird hide, lookout, gravesite and cave, saw a couple of new birds
- returned to camp to find the Willeys had arrived. After dinner Libby took all the children off to the hot tub, there are hot springs nearby. The tub was great but got really chilled getting back to the vans
Day 55
The day we:
- went to the beach for a chance meeting with dolphins but they didn't coe in before we had to leave at 9am
- called in to Eagle Bluff, a beautiful lookout over brilliantly clear water. Visited Shell Beach where the water is two times saltier than normal and the beach is completely made up of compacted shells. Finally we visited the Stromatolites of Hamlin Pool, the best-known colony of these prehistoric bacteria in the world
- ate lunch at Billabong in a lovely wayside stop surrounded by wildflowers then drove on to Kalbarri. For the first time in a long time we have driven passed pasture this afternoon. As you approach town you travel through the extensive Kalbarri National Park, this area is densely covered in 1-1.5m coastal shrub and it's all in flower now, beautiful
- set up in Tudor C'van Pk then visited the Wildflower Centre which is managed by a cousin of a teacher recently retired from CCS
- visited Red Bluff Lookout to see great views of this 'shipwreck coast' also saw Kestrels stalking the cliffs and whales blowing spouts but well out. Called in to Wittecarra Ck believed to be the site where 2 sailors from the Batavia were put to shore after mutiny aboard in 1629 - the first European residents of Aust (albeit unwillingly)
- cooked dinner in the camp kitchen alongside an old friend of the Crapps. There's a TV here so saw the news broadcast, first one since Ballarat.
Day 56
The day we:
- were woken just after 5am by the sound of rain. Unbelievable, haven't heard that sound in seven and a half weeks. It continued all morning so we relaxed with magazines, etc
- headed out to the national park when it eased to visit The Loop and Z Bend, two beautiful spots overlooking the Murchison River. They are well worth the walk to get to and the plant life and wildlife is lovely along the way. Pity about the drizzle
- had lunch back at the van then Eric washed down the car which was covered in yellow (not red) mud from the park's unsealed roads, while Libby and the boys enjoyed a game of mini golf. In the afternoon we drove along the coast to see formations not unlike those on Vic's S.W. Coast; Natural Bridge, Castle Cove, Pot Alley and Blue Pools
- visited Rainbow Jungle, a display of parrots from all over Aust and some from S. America, India, Asia and Europe
- returned to town, called in to the town beach to see a fishing boat that had just been rescued off a reef after being stuck there for 2 weeks. It looks wrecked but apparently salvageable
- dined out at The Tin Shed, Finlay's Fresh Fish BBQ. Great atmosphere, great meal and good value. Finlay brothers are the chefs and they love to stir the patrons. Interesting history, it all began when the pilot strike (1989) meant this fishing family couldn't transport their fresh catch to the markets so they decided to be enterprising and sell direct.
Day 57
The day we:
- got away to an early start at 7.30, drove through Nth Hampton where Iris nursed years ago
- called into Geraldton to pick up a few supplies including a new MAD magazine, the boys just love them and spend many hours in the back seat studying them
- saw the famous cathedral, considered visiting the museum devoted to Dutch exploration and shipwrecks but we still have so far to travel and we've heard of the Maritime Museum in Freemantle and plan to visit it
- briefly visited Dongara intending to have morning tea under the famous Moreton Bay Figs that line the main street. Libby kept suggesting that we go on to the one just further on, "it looks better", until we found ourselves out of town. Ended up drinking coffee on the side of the hwy!
- arrived in Cervantes about 1.30pm, set up and had lunch. Booked a 4WD trip along the coast and sandboarding amongst the enormous dunes for 8.30am tomorrow
- drove out to Nambung Nat. Pk to see the Pinnacles. Spent the whole afternoon among these fascinating structures, it takes little imagination to see all manner of things they look like. We also sent the boys up huge sand dunes, saw lots of birds and called into Hangover Bay where Luke and Libby were 'silly' enough to have a quick swim. It turned out to be the last of the trip
- watched a huge storm come in from over the ocean, pass overhead then dump bucketloads just inland. The lightning and thunder continued through the evening but we got no rain
- ate our last roast ever baked in the van oven then Eric won Yahtzee again to retain his crown, his luck wont last
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